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Wood, water and talk create a great whiskey

The history of whisky production in Scotland is deep, varied and interesting, and the story of how Glenmorangie Distilleries came to be throughout the years is no exception.

The history of whisky production in Scotland is deep, varied and interesting, and the story of how Glenmorangie Distilleries came to be throughout the years is no exception. In fact, in some ways the Glenmorangie story is quite similar to other producers in the area.

This distillery near the town of Tain on Dornoch Firth, an inlet in the Scottish Highlands, began life as a beer brewery on the Morangie farm back in 1738. It remained a beer distillery until 1843 when a former employee, William Matheson, bought it to create Glenmorangie. In 1918, the distillery was sold to MacDonald and Muir, who owned it for 90 years. Today, Glenmorangie is owned by the French firm of Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVHM).

Since 1843, Glenmorangie has been in nearly continuous operation. However, production was sporadic from 1919 - the beginning of American prohibition - until the end of the second World War in 1945. These were catastrophic events for all Scotch whisky producers, and the majority ceased operation during this time.

Starting with used swan-necked copper gin stills, William Matheson began making Scotch. Today, Glenmorangie boasts six wash stills and six spirit stills. During the distillation process, myth has it that the 'spirit' has a conversation with the copper. For Glenmorangie - a company with the tallest stills in the land - this conversation will take a long time.

One of the key ingredients in Scotch whisky is water. Glenmorangie Distillery also owns the rights to Tarlogie springs, a prime and pure water source. The second key ingredient is grain that is provided by a co-operative of local growers. Finally, the distillery must have the wood barrels required for aging. Glenmorangie has ensured its supply by purchasing a forest in the Ozark Mountains of Missouri. Here the new barrels are left to air for two years before being leased to Tennessee whisky and bourbon producers. After the barrels have been used for up to four years, they are sent to Scotland and filled with Glenmorangie Single Malt Scotch whisky for aging.

Today Scotch whiskies are being finished in barrels that have been used for everything form sherry to Bordeaux wines. Since the purchase of Glenmorangie by LVHM, a line of whisky with these unique finishes has been added, along with whiskies bottled as old as 25 years. Readily available are the Original 10-year old and whisky that has been finished or spent time after maturation in barrels that once aged sherry or port, and even ones that once held Sauternes, the famous sweet dessert wine of Bordeaux, France.

Recently I had the chance to taste the Glenmorangie Original, a 10-year old whisky that has been aged only in used bourbon whisky barrels. It was a light but warm gold colour with so many different aromas. I expected some smoky peat but didn't find any, and instead found an array of citrus, floral, herb and sweet tree fruits. In the mouth I found it light with a slight sweetness and a tang of citrus and only on the finish did I find just the slightest hint of smokiness. No wonder this Scotch has been one of the best selling whiskies in the world.. I can't imagine anyone not liking it with its warm and easy charm.