There are two main types of clam chowder. The first is referred to as "New England" or sometimes "Boston" clam chowder, which is a milk and broth based soup that also contains bacon/salt pork, potatoes, celery and sometimes a little carrot or chopped parsley for colour.
This soup was originally thickened with sea biscuits/ hard tack (sailors bread) or pilot biscuits, most often now it is a roux (butter or bacon fat and flour) thickened soup as hard tack is not easy to find in landlocked parts of Canada; most chefs also add cream for richness. This type of soup was made hearty and thick as it was often all you ate for the meal, apart from some bread or biscuits.
The other type of chowder that is often seen on menus is Manhattan clam chowder or New York clam chowder. It is thought that this type of chowder was originally made by immigrants from Portugal who were used to using tomatoes in their soups and stews. The term "New Yorker" was used as an insult to people who lived in the Northern coastal areas around Boston and other coastal areas in the region. During the 1930s, a bill was introduced in the Maine legislature that would have banned the adding of tomatoes to clam chowder in the state.
Another type is Long Island chowder which is a creamy tomato chowder. It is a pun on the geography as it is halfway between Manhattan and New England.
There are many other types and varieties of clam chowder that are typically made with what is on hand or what your preferences are. It is like a lot of other foods in that what you grow up with and become accustomed to is naturally your preference and what you identify with.
The most popular type of chowder in Western Canada is the creamy New England/Boston style so this is the recipe that I will include for your enjoyment.
The reason that the areas around Boston took on this type of chowder is that there were a lot of immigrants from Scotland and the British Isles who grew up with a similar dish that is known as Cullen Skink.
New England style Clam Chowder
Ingredients
2 cans clams, 398 gram size
175 g minced onion
120 g diced celery
350 g cubed potatoes
150 g diced carrots
170 g butter
100 g all-purpose flour
1 litre half-and-half cream
30 ml red wine vinegar
1 tsp salt
ground black pepper to taste
Directions
1. Put the onions, celery, potatoes and carrots into a large skillet. Drain juice from clams, add water to cover, and cook over medium heat until tender.
2. Meanwhile, in a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in flour until smooth. Whisk in cream and stir constantly until thick and smooth, make sure to use a wooden spoon or spatula to get into the corners of the pot.
3. Mix in vegetables and clam juice. Heat through, but do not boil.
4. Stir in clams just before serving.
5. When clams are heated through, stir in vinegar, and season with salt and pepper.
6. Serve immediately with some nice crunchy bread or buns or, if you really want to splurge, make some fresh biscuits or use a pack of prepared crescent rolls or buns.
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This week's column is written by Chef Tony Rechsteiner, who has been a chef for 39 years. Originally from Australia, he is a Certified Chef de Cuisine (C.C.C.) and instructor in CNC's Professional Cook Program.
