This week's recipe by Chef Tony Rechsteiner, Instructor of Culinary Arts at the College of New Caledonia, is New England Clam Chowder. I have to say that this is one of my favourite soups/comfort foods. The richness of this chowder makes a hearty meal in any season and allows us to use some of the harvest of this part of the country, whether it be root vegetables from our gardens or incredible seafood that is never too far away in British Columbia.
As mentioned in previous articles, there are several ways to look at pairing wine and food. One is to focus on contrasting elements of each and use that to accentuate the competing flavours and textures of both. Another is to focus on similarities in weight and texture and use that as a focus for the marriage of wine and food. Both approaches are the basis of any sound wine and food pairing, but when you can combine the two, sometimes you can achieve matches that are truly outstanding. This is where we are going today.
Clam chowder is a rich dish with layers of flavours that coat the tongue. So for our pairing this week, I have chosen a wine that is similarly tongue coating. But the wine I am recommending also has the added benefit of contrasting and accentuating elements of the chowder, which will make the whole much greater than the individual elements - even though both are fantastic on their own.
The wine I have selected to pair with Chef Rechsteiner's New England clam chowder is Burrowing Owl Estate Winery - 2008 - Chardonnay. Citrus notes abound and come together with a hint of toffee (a gift from the oak treatment) and a backbone of minerality. They are characteristic flavours one would expect from a fine, oaked chardonnay. As well, there is a nice balance of stone fruit (peach and apricot) and grapefruit zest (a B.C. white wine core characteristic) along with medium-plus acidity that anchors this wine and allows all of its individual elements to play out in impeccable balance.
The winemaking team at Burrowing Owl pays dutiful attention to detail in making their wines and this Chardonnay is no exception. From the selection of preferred yeast strains for fermentation, to the type and age of the barrels used in the process, this wine displays a full-bodied mouthfeel with delicate yet definable aromas and flavours that will entice even those who don't necessarily enjoy Chardonnay.
This wine is heavy enough to stand up to the creaminess of the chowder and the delicate saltiness of the clams. Yet this Chardonnay still maintains a delicate fruit and floral character that helps to contrast the competing flavours of the soup. The citrus character of the Chardonnay is always a good match with seafood dishes and the subtle smokiness of the wine, created from the French oak barrels used for ageing the wine, adds a layer of complexity that is unmatchable and really helps to play up the flavour and texture of the clams and potatoes.
This is an outstanding example of warm climate Chardonnay as grown in the South Okanagan. The Black Sage Bench, where the Burrowing Owl Estate vineyard is located, is world renowned for its heat units, daily sunshine levels and garrigue of sages and other local flora that make some of the most recognizable and satisfying wines in the world today. Burrowing Owl has long been one of the benchmark wineries in the Okanagan that has pushed other producers to improve quality and sustainability practices in this glorious Okanagan sub-region.
You can buy this wine directly from the winery online at www.bovwine.ca. At $25, Burrowing Owl 2008 Chardonnay is excellent value and will keep you coming back for more. If you have wine related questions send them to me at [email protected].
As always, enjoy your wine responsibly but often!
