by Ron Christian
CNC culinary arts chef
Food for Thought
Veal is a nutritious and nutrient-rich meat that is produced by any cattle breed. Most veal is the male offspring of dairy cattle.
Dairy cows give birth once a year in order to continue producing milk. While female offspring serve as dairy replacement animals, bull calves have little value to the dairy farmer prior to the establishment of milk-fed veal farming.
There are five types of veal. Bob veal is from calves that are slaughtered when they are only a few days old (70 - 150 lbs.)
Formula-fed (or milk-fed) veal is from calves that are raised on milk formula supplement. The milk colour is ivory or creamy pink, with a firm, fine, and velvety appearance. They are usually slaughtered when they reach 18-20 weeks of age (450-500 lbs).
Non-formula fed (red or grain fed) veal, is from calves that are raised on grain, hay, or other solid food, in addition to milk. The meat is darker in colour, and some additional marbling and fat may be apparent. This veal is usually marketed as a calf, rather than veal, at 22-26 weeks of age (650-700 lbs).
Rose veal U.K. is from calves reared on farms in association with the UK RSPCAs Freedom Food program. These calves are slaughtered at around 35 weeks of age.
Free-raised veal is raised in the pasture, has unlimited access to mother's milk and pasture grasses. They are not administered hormones or antibiotics. These conditions replicate those used to raise authentic pasture-raised veal. Free-raised veal is typically lower in fat than other veal. Calves are slaughtered at about 24 weeks of age.
Osso Bucco Milanese
2 kg of veal shank cut into one-inch round pieces
1 medium sized carrot cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 onion cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 cloves garlic
2 stalks celery cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 litres of hot, brown veal stock
15 ml tomato paste
200 ml vegetable oil
500 g all-purpose flour, plus 200 g all-purpose flour
salt and pepper to taste
28-ounce can diced tomatoes
1/2 bottle Marsala wine
In a thick-bottomed pot, add some oil to cover the bottom and put on medium heat. When the pan is hot enough, season the shank pieces with salt and pepper, dredge in the 500 g of flour and brown each piece on both sides. Do not put too many pieces in the pan at one time.
Remove the shank, add all the vegetables except the tomatoes. Sautee the vegetables, add the tomato paste and brown. When the tomato paste is brown, de glaze the pan with the Marsala. Sprinkle in the 200 g of flour to form a trough. With a whisk, whisk in the hot brown stock; when smooth, bring it to a boil and simmer, add the diced tomatoes.
Place the veal shank in the pot; make sure the pot is only big enough so the shanks are two-thirds in the liquid. Cover and put in a 350F oven. Braise for about 2.5 to three hours until the shanks are falling off the bone tender. Remove shanks and strain the sauce. Coarsely chop one carrot, one stalk of celery, one onion and three tomatoes.
Sweat off the vegetables except the tomato, add fresh herbs, basil thyme, and chiffonade season, and add the tomato.
Plate the osso bucco, add sauce and top with the vegetable garnish.
