Food For Thought
Note: This is the second column on morel mushrooms.
There are several different species of morels. The common or yellow morel (morchella esculenta) has a tan to pale yellow-brown, somewhat rounded, honeycombed head.
The black morel (morchella elata) is smaller with a very dark, conical head. Both species are easy to recognize and there is little likelihood of errors in identification.
The half-free morel (mitrophora semilibera) is similar to the two common morels, but is distinguished by elongate, shallow pits and by the fact that the base of the head is somewhat flared, skirt-like and free from the stalk.
Ptychoverpa bohemica, or wrinkled thimble cap also known as verpa bohemica, is a member of the false morel group, it should be treated with respect and a little suspicion, as it causes stomach upsets in some people.
The false morels are a group of fungi related to the true morels, which fruit in the same places about the same time. In false morels the fruit bodies are wrinkled rather than honeycombed.
Ptychoverpa bohemica has irregular wrinkles running more or less vertically down the brown head and has a pale tan stalk. This species has caused gastro-intestinal problems for a number of people who have consumed it and should be avoided.
Morel Mushroom Soup
1/2 tsp saffron threads
2 tbsp vegetable oil
6 tbsp minced shallots
2 tbsp finely chopped garlic
15 ounces morels, cleaned trimmed and sliced
6 ounces white mushrooms sliced
7 cups good chicken stock
1/8 tsp curry powder
1/3 cup diced carrots
1/3 cup diced turnip
2 tbsp butter
Method
Bring a half-cup of stock to a simmer in a sauce pan, add the saffron, set aside and let steep. Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-low heat. Add shallots and garlic, stir one minute. Add half the morels and all the white mushrooms. Saut until mushrooms release all their liquid, about eight minutes.
Add curry powder and saut until mushrooms are tender; add saffron mixture and six cups of stock. Simmer until mushrooms are tender, about 15 minutes.
Remove from heat and put the mushrooms along with one cup of stock into a food blender and process until smooth. Return to saucepan with stock and simmer for 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Saut remaining morels over medium-high heat in butter, for about eight minutes. Season. Ladle soup into four bowls and top with sautd mushrooms. Serve.
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This week's column is written by chef Ron Christian, who has been a chef for 30 years. He is a CNC professional cook instructor, who has also taught at BCIT, Vancouver Community College and has worked all over the world. If you have any questions or comments, e-mail [email protected].
